edible san francisco COMFORT IN UNEXPECTED PLACES WINTER 2025
A FAMILY RAISED BUSINESS EST 1981 5 LOCATIONS TO SERVE YOU 1530 HAIGHT ST. PHONE: 415.255.0643 3701 NORIEGA ST. PHONE: 415.564.0370 2111 HARRISON ST. PHONE: 415.431.9300 1101 4TH ST. PHONE: 415.943.8464 2815 DIAMOND ST. PHONE: 415.943.8464 DELIVERY BY By locals for locals. Our family has been serving the best ourarea has to o er to the best people in the area for almost four decades. We know what folks like, and it’s pretty simple – fresh groceries, great selection and neighborly service. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
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ediblesf.com | 3 is a network of magazines across the U.S. and Canada fall 2021 1 edible BOZEMAN Telling the Stories of Local Food & Drink Issue No. 10 • Fall 2021 edible BOZEMAN Issue No. 10 Fall 2021 Member of Edible Communities FALL 2023 WOLDY REYES ARRIVES No. 80 / SPRING 2024 Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season edible CAPECOD® MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES edibleeastbay.com | Fall 2024 1 edibleEAST BAY® Views on food and farming from east of the San Francisco Bay ² Since 2005 No. 76 ² Fall 2024 Member of Edible Communities SUMMER 2024 57 The Land • Berry Bright Summer • Wild Game A member of Edible Communities Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin edible MAINE MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES WHY MAINE IS THE BEST / OUR FOOD TASTES BETTER / SAILING AND LOBSTER, WHAT’S BETTER? MAINE SPRING PEARS THE WAY FOOD SHOULD BE... HOLIDAY 2023 PLUS: HIP-HOP + CANNABIS DASHEEDA DAWSON THE WIDE WORLD OF WEED ISSUE ROMILLY NEWMAN PARTY THE EdibleNEFlorida.com 1 Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season Member of Edible Communities ISSUE FORTY EIGHT | September/October 2023 FOOD & ART Master Iss48.indd 1 8/25/23 1:34 PM SPRING 2024 Number 37 ediblePHILLY FOOD & COMMUNITY IN PHILADELPHIA AND BEYOND LOCAL HEROES Rhubarb Recipes The Perks of Fermentation A Very Cheesy Goodbye PLUS ISSUE 45 • SUMMER/FALL 2020 LOYAL TO LOCAL edible Santa Barbara & Wine Country Cuyama Lamb, Stewards for the Land God’s Country Provisions Life in Balance How to Write a Food Blog During a Pandemic and National Crisis ® ISSUE 30 • NOVT/DEC 2024 edible VANCOUVER ISLAND Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands Member of Edible Communities ISSUE 30 • NOV/DEC 2024 Gift Boxes • Orange Wine • Santa Snacks edible VANCOUVER & WINE COUNTRY FROZEN BERRIES . BETTER BUTTER . VEGAN BREAD Member of Edible Communities NO. 93 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 NO.12 | SUMMER 2023 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food NEW BRUNSWICK - PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - NOVA SCOTIA Proud Member of Edible Communities edible Maritimes edible MENDOCINO & LAKE COUNTIES Celebrating Local Food and Drink, Season by Season Volume 1, Issue 1 Fall 2023 Mushroom Recipes to Fall ‘Inn’ Love With Meet the New Executive Chef at the Inn at Newport Ranch Rex Pickett, Author of Sideways, Returns to the Anderson Valley Tall Guy Brewery, Fort Bragg’s Newest Taproom Member of Edible Communities NO. 1 SUMMER 2023 Wild Finds edible newfoundland & labrador the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food We are part of something bigger! Scan to learn more SERVING NORTHEAST WISCONSIN A member of Edible Communities Premier Issue SPRING/SUMMER2024 • 1 Summer 2021 Summer 2021 Summer 2021 FALL 2024 • ISSUE No. 35 edible silicon valley BAY AREA PENINSULA & SOUTH BAY Eat Drink Local: Los Gatos • San Mateo Silicon Valley’s Wine Families • Revival of the Gut • Cultivating Cacao In Praise of Dirt • Broccoli Rabe US $7.95 OR Local Patron Copy EAT • DRINK • GROW • THINK Member of Edible Communities Celebrating local farms food and vineyards of Prescott, Flagstaff, Sedona and the Verde Valley Proud Member of Edible Communities edible CENTRAL ARIZONA THE STORIES AND CELEBRATION OF FOOD AND DRINK OCTOBER 2024 WE’RE BACK! Staff Picks / Holiday Menus / Hoosier Distilleries / World Food Championships MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES in this issue: Finding Flavor in the Heartland MOCKTAILS: MUCH MORE THAN JUICE
4 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 CONTENTS Cover image: Tri Nguyen Photographers: Octavia Films, Alex Farnum, Tri Nguyen ON THE COVER 26 PIER AND SIMPLE A beginner's guide to the peaceful art of crabbing COMFORT IN UNEXPECTED PLACES 13 TAKE FIVE: RESTAURANT HIT LIST Spots well worth the trip beyond your home turf 16 RESERVED: TABLE OF 15 ON AISLE THREE Inside the HOMEGROWN grocery store dinner series 18 THIRD SPOONFUL Inside Green Gulch Farm's monastery kitchen 22 ORDER OF THINGS What the bees can teach us about finding calm 30 EIGHT FLOORS UP Bamford Spa's unexpected sanctuary 34 STEAM STATE Where the Bay goes to sweat 38 SHOP THE EDIT Curated comforts for the season 40 PARTING SHOT The essential winter cocktail for the city-minded Aisle service, p16 Monk soup, p18 Suspended season, p22 Quiet setting, p34
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8 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 edible san francisco PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Melody Saradpon PUBLISHER Tony Garnicki DIRECTOR OF BRAND STRATEGY & PARTNERSHIPS Heather Hartle ART DIRECTOR/DESIGNER Melody Saradpon COPY DIRECTOR Doug Adrianson CONTRIBUTORS Daisy Barringer Heather Hartle Tri Nguyen Alison Pollack Adrian Spinelli Flora Tsapovsky ADVERTISING SALES info@ediblesf.com CONTACT US 584 Castro Street, Suite #508 San Francisco, CA 94114 Edible San Francisco is published four times a year and distributed throughout San Francisco. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Member of Edible Communities @ediblesf omnivore BOOKS ON FOOD a a new antiquarian collectible 3885a cesar chavez street (at church st.) san francisco, ca 94131 phone: 415.282.4712 omnivorebooks.com a
ediblesf.com | 9 THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS. In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries. Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them! Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture. Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table. THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO Crafted in Spain, perfected by time Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food of Spain. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them. Enjoy wine in moderation. Min. 11º Max. 12,5º Unforgettable Serve Aged even more Aged Made with care Crafted in Spain Learn more on our website
10 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 EDITOR'S LETTER Melody Saradpon Editor-in-Chief & Publisher To unlikely places, I thought I knew where comfort lives. Then I started looking for it in stranger places. A monastery kitchen where nothing is just a tool. Sweating among strangers. Forgotten plans. A supperclub inside a grocery store. Pizza in a tree. Soup on a saddle. Crab in the laundry. What I found: comfort isn't always soft. It doesn't always arrive on our terms. Sometimes it's the collision of incompatible things that surprisingly work. Winter asks us to find contentment where we don't expect it. These stories showed me where. I hope they show you too.
ediblesf.com | 11 CONTRIBUTORS We asked the voices behind this issue a simple question: What odd comfort never fails you? Their answers revealed the unexpected places we all find warmth. Heather Hartle Looking through my family's old photos, tin-plate portraits, along with gold-rush-era newspaper clippings my relatives tucked away. Nostalgia, for me, is peace. Heather Hartle has spent her career shaping lifestyle magazines—7x7 among them—but her true obsession is sharing stories over food, friends, and a glass of bubbles. Flora Tsapovsky Wearing my plush bathrobe over my tracksuit as I binge a TV show and eat matzah ball soup. Flora Tsapovsky is a food and culture writer living in the Bay Area. She covers emerging trends and fascinating people. Her work has appeared in Conde Nast Traveler, Vogue, Wired, Elle, Food & Wine, and many more. Find her on Instagram: @bicoastalista Daisy Barringer Alison Pollack Watching the Real Housewives scream at each other. Daisy Barringer is a journalist covering food, travel, and culture. She grew up in San Francisco and has an MFA from UNC Wilmington—or, as she prefers to say, a three-year stint at creative writing summer camp. Find her on Instagram @daisysf Jiu Jitsu. I started training last year, and the thrill of the fight is weirdly soothing. Alison is a freelance writer, educator, and biologist who has spent over a decade exploring, learning, and eating her way all around the Bay Area. The only thing she loves more than the outdoors is food, and when she can blend the two, she's at her peak. Adrian Spinelli Eating a spoonful of dulce de leche with my afternoon espresso. Gimme gimme. Adrian Spinelli is a Brazilian-born, San Francisco-based arts & culture writer who has lived in the city for over 15 years. His work focuses on the intersection of music, food, drinks and travel and he also leads food tours through the city. Find him on Instagram /X: @agspinelli Tri Nguyen Christmas music, even in July. Tri Nguyen was born in Vietnam, raised in New Jersey, and landed in San Francisco 12 years ago. He studied chemistry in college, started a competitive BBQ team, loves negronis, collects vintage tube amplifiers, and hoards cookbooks. Photography is his passion and fulltime career.
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ediblesf.com | 13 TAKE FIVE: RESTAURANT HIT LIST This season’s most interesting openings stretch from Mission Rock to the Ferry Building to the heart of Union Square, each one anchored in a distinct sense of place. Think deli comfort with cocktail ambition, Itameshi after dark, and waterfront rooms built around fire and Northern California produce. They’re spread out across the city, but they’re well worth a trip beyond your home turf. Writer—Daisy Barringer Just off Redwood Park at the base of the Transamerica Pyramid is Ama, downtown’s new after-dark hangout where Itameshi—the art of blending Italian and Japanese flavors— takes on a sleek late-night form. In the Copper Room, windowless, low-lit, wrapped in dark wood and warmed by the glow of a polished copper bar, chef Brad Kilgore leans into contrasts: bluefin carpaccio over crackling rice, his signature “soft egg” scallop custard, and spiraled lumache in an (you’ve been warned) addictive chile-bright vodka sauce. Around the corner, Ama Social Club settles into its nighttime persona with UFO-like lighting, vintage pinball machines, deep sofas, a DJ booth, and cocktails that keep the place humming: Japanese whisky, sharp Negroni riffs, and bright citrus drinks that make it dangerously easy to lose track of time (helped along by a gentle request to keep phones tucked away). It’s a polished, moody addition to the neighborhood and quietly one of the most intriguing openings downtown has seen in a while. amabybradkilgore.com AMA & AMA SOCIAL CLUB SWANKY NIGHTS AND UFO LIGHTS Photo—Joseph Weaver Photo—Yoshihiro Makino
14 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 SUPER MENSCH Super Mensch is what happens when a lifelong pastrami obsessive and a mad-scientist bartender build the kind of delibar mashup only San Francisco could pull off. Owners Adam Rosenblum and Elmer Mejicanos, the duo behind Causwells, channel classic deli institutions through a distinctly SF lens, creating something that’s somehow both fresh and familiar. The food leans comforting, not fussy: crisp, layered latkes with crème fraîche and salmon roe; everything bagels with scallion cream cheese and smoked salmon; and the namesake Super Mensch, a full pound of smoked-and-brined pastrami on house-made rye, built for sharing (or not). The cocktails follow suit, most famously the matzah-ball-soup margarita with its herb-speckled ice “matzah ball” that seasons the drink as it melts. Save room for a massive slice of chocolate cake for two to four. (However big you’re imagining it, it’s bigger.) Only one is baked each day, so go early if you’re serious. (Which you are.) With a marquee menu board and illustrations of beloved delis lining the walls, Super Mensch lands between neighborhood hang and cultural wink: playful, specific, and very much a mensch at heart. supermenschsf.com NOSTALGIA ON RYE, CHUTZPAH IN THE GLASS VIA AURELIA Mission Rock’s newest arrival is a stunner: a Tuscaninspired restaurant from the team behind Che Fico, set right on the waterfront with views stretching toward Oracle Park. Inside, vaulted ceilings, lime-washed walls, soft fresco-like textures, and warm tones of terracotta, olive, and juniper create a vibe that’s Tuscany-meetsSF in the best way: warm, modern, and beautifully restrained. The menu dives into Tuscany with both range and focus. Expect porcini sformato with sunchoke and Parmigiano Reggiano; hand-rolled pici with Sonoma squab ragù and crispy rosemary; and a bistecca alla Fiorentina cut from a porterhouse big enough to make the rest of the city’s steaks pretend they weren’t trying that hard anyway. Dishes will shift with the seasons, but look for seafood, pastas, and vegetable-forward plates informed by Tuscany’s coast, farmland, and forests. A 650-bottle wine list spans standout producers from Italy, France, and California. Whether you go à la carte or opt for the tasting menu, Via Aurelia offers a refined-but-welcoming experience— part Tuscan escape, part Mission Rock standout, whole reason to make a reservation. viaaureliasf.com TUSCANY BY WAY OF THE BAY Photos—Eric Wolfinger Photos—Angela DeCenzo
ediblesf.com | 15 ARQUET The Ferry Building’s most iconic corner has found new life in the former Slanted Door space, and Arquet feels like the restaurant it was waiting for—bright, generous, and rooted deeply in Northern California’s bounty. From the Sorrel team, this all-day space pairs sweeping Bay Bridge views with a wood-burning hearth that sends out plates built for sharing: Dungeness crab brioche that is destined to disappear the moment it hits the table; ricotta dumplings with sweet corn, smoky octopus; and hot-honey chicken that’s pure comfort without feeling heavy. Vegetables get top billing, and desserts stay playful, from ube Basque cheesecake to warm cookies with marshmallow milk. The room itself is a minimalist, sunlit counterpoint to the bustle outside: curved doorways, ash-wood tables, and an open kitchen. With Parachute Bakery next door fueling the morning crowd and Arquet extending that energy into lunch and dinner, the Ferry Building, long known for its daytime dining, is slowly building an evening rhythm, and Arquet feels perfectly positioned to define it. arquetrestaurant.com FERRY BUILDING'S NEW HEART(H)-DRIVEN KITCHEN Inside the landmark Westin St. Francis, Bourbon Steak San Francisco marks Michael Mina’s return to the iconic space with the kind of grand hotel dining Union Square hasn’t seen in ages: gleaming green marble columns, soaring king palms, sculptural chandeliers, and a plush lounge that practically insists on a martini. The menu goes all-in on the steakhouse experience, with Mina signatures like the crab cake “poptart,” tuna tartare mixed tableside, and butter-poached and wood-grilled steaks ranging from classic cuts to luxe wagyu. Showstoppers, both on the plate and the bill, include a $125 Maine lobster potpie and a hay-smoked tomahawk finished with a bourbon blaze that’ll set you back $325. Seafood gets equal fanfare, from whole Dungeness crab to Dover sole with caviar-butter sauce, backed by truffled, whipped, and gratinéed sides built for sharing. After dinner, slip downstairs to The Eighth Rule, Stephen Curry’s intimate bourbon bar, for an omakase-style cocktail flight or a pour of bourbon. It’s a bold return for Mina and a welcome moment of glamour for Union Square, one that feels built for locals—albeit ones with deep pockets—as much as travelers. bourbonsteak.com/location/san-francisco BOURBON STEAK SAN FRANCISCO A GRAND RETURN TO UNION SQUARE Photos—Alexis Howard Photos—Michael Weber, Michelle Min
16 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 RESERVED: TABLE OF 15 ON AISLE THREE Inside the dinner series turning supermarket aisles into sought-after reservations Writer—Heather Hartle Photographer—Octavia Films On an ordinary weeknight in the Castro, long after the last shoppers were meant to drift out of The Epicurean Trader, something quietly unexpected began to take shape. The lights softened. The shelves glowed. A pianist tested a few warm notes. Chef Byron Hughes unpacked ingredients straight from the market’s displays. And yet, people kept wandering in. The doors were unlocked while the HOMEGROWN team set up, so regulars slipped inside in search of a Tartine Country Sourdough loaf, Point Reyes Bay Blue cheese, or a bottle of their favorite POE wine. Instead, they found a long table stretching down the grocery aisle and a small crew transforming their neighborhood shop into something else entirely. As always, they were warmly helped with their purchases and sent back out into the Castro night, smiling and wondering what, exactly, was about to happen. This was HOMEGROWN, Edible San Francisco’s newest live culinary experiment and the anchor of our Winter issue, themed around finding comfort in unexpected places. For this inaugural pilot, fifteen guests were invited to experience the concept firsthand at an intimate table that will expand into a ticketed series going forward. But the purpose of the evening reached beyond the novelty of dining in a grocery aisle. HOMEGROWN was created to bring people closer to the stories behind the food and drink we share—the beginnings, the makers, and the quiet human effort we rarely see when we reach for something on a shelf. The dinner was an invitation to slow down, notice, and connect. For this first event, we partnered with The Epicurean Trader, one of the city’s most beloved specialty grocers and a longtime champion of small-batch producers. Hosting the dinner inside their newest Castro location felt fitting: the store is built on discovery, care, and a deep love of well-made things. Before the meal began, co-founder Holly McDell shared how Epicurean started as a single neighborhood shop and, step by step, grew into five San Francisco locations. Her story was simple and sincere, rooted in curiosity, community, and the joy of finding something special and it set a warm tone for the evening. Guests began the evening with cocktails from Sausalito Liquor Co., which flowed naturally into the dinner that followed. The Black Manhattan and chocolate martini quickly stood out as favorites rich, memorable, and perfect for the setting. Founder Scott Jampol shared a brief glimpse into how his small-batch spirits came to be, a reminder that every bottle has a beginning. Chef Byron Hughes of Last Supper Society prepared the evening’s menu in a bespoke kitchen created just for the night, using ingredients pulled from the shelves around him. Guests wandered over to peek in as he cooked, then he stepped out to introduce each course before it was served. The main dish, a slow-braised short rib pasta served family-style brought an immediate sense of comfort to the table. Dessert arrived as an abundant cheese course served on long wooden boards. The spread featured Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Uplands Cheese, 1605 Aged Manchego, Langa La Tur, Cowgirl Creamery’s Devils Gulch, Cabra Romero, and OG Kristal Aged Gouda paired with Quince & Apple’s Black Tea & Fig Preserve, membrillo paste, Rustic Bakery flatbread crackers, caramelized walnuts, and slices of Tartine bread. Unfussy, generous, and communal, it felt like the edible equivalent of settling in. Throughout the night, live music floated through the aisles not from a speaker, but from an actual piano brought into the store for the evening. Pianist Preston Liang played softly from a corner of the market, an unexpected touch that shifted the entire room without overpowering it. The moment hinted at what HOMEGROWN will continue exploring: immersive, surprising layers of entertainment that transform familiar spaces and make each dinner feel like its own small world. Around the table sat a cross-section of the city; finance, real estate, media, fashion, tech, food brought together by curiosity and a willingness to experience something unexpected. Many arrived unsure of what the evening would be; by dessert, they were laughing like old friends. This is the deeper purpose of HOMEGROWN: to celebrate the origins of the things we love, to find meaning in familiar spaces, and to create new ways for people to come together across a table. This first dinner was just the beginning. More HOMEGROWN events will unfold across the city and beyond honoring local and regional producers, the stories behind what we eat and drink, and the comfort that comes from gathering in places we never imagined. Because sometimes, the most memorable meals begin in ordinary places that have been waiting to surprise us. homegrowndinnerseries.com
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18 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 Photographer—Tri Nguyen Writer—Melody Saradpon Inside Green Gulch Farm's monastery kitchen, where they remember how you eat The man who made me cry is named after a tiger. Zenko Montgomery, the Tenzo (head cook) at Green Gulch Farm—his name translates to a zen tiger taking to the mountains—gestures toward the four large steel appliances, humming in the monastery kitchen. He introduces the convection oven as Efukū (“Nourishing Wind”) and the heavyset six-burner range as Seien (“Sacred Flame”) with the tender attention most people reserve for sleeping children. He smiles, nodding in reverence to the remaining two. I learn the griddle is named Tetsuryū (“Iron Dragon”); the four-burner range, Kōki (“Dazzling Works”). Zenko lives here, in this valley 30 minutes from San Francisco near Muir Beach, where the Zen center has been making people cry for 50 years. I’m here because I was one of them. Four weeks ago: tortilla soup, third spoonful, sudden tears in the dining hall. Gentle, but insistent, the kind that made me grateful for the ritual silence and corner window seat. Now I’m back, trying to understand what kind of cooking can do that to a person. Turns out, I’m not special. When I tell Zenko about the soup incident, he laughs with the hearty ease of someone who’s seen this before. Then he grins—warm, knowing, the kind that suggests he’s about to share something slightly absurd but absolutely true. “The dish that’s made people cry the most,” he tells me, “is rolled oats, applesauce, cheese cubes, and toasted almonds. It’s like apple pie with cheese, basically deconstructed.” The simplicity throws me. Cafeteria food, essentially. “How long have you been serving this?” “It’s a recipe from the early ’70s when THIRD SPOONFUL 2 1
ediblesf.com | 19 [San Francisco] Zen Center was founded,” he says. “We’ve just been cooking it for 50 years.” I try to picture it: 50 years of people— longtime practitioners, weekend guests, retreat participants—moved to tears by oatmeal and cheese cubes. When I ask why he thinks it affects people this way, he considers the question. “I feel like this practice brings you closer to yourself, right?” he says. “And gets you out of the world of performing or wearing a mask for anyone else.” He pauses, quiet and thoughtful, suggesting something philosophical is coming. Taking advantage, I lean in with a big question. “How would you define zen comfort food?” I watch his response. “Oh, gosh. We cook just real-ass comfort food too,” he laughs. The levity enters like sunshine. He tells me about serving mac and cheese after groups of people sat in silent meditation from 5am to 7:30pm for an all-day intensive monastic practice. But Zenko draws menu inspiration from everywhere: one night, Jamaican; the next, Korean; then Georgian or Hawaiian soul food. His cooking philosophy is rooted in the Tenzo Kyokun, a 13th-century text for the monastery cook written by Dogen, founder of the Soto Zen school. “We chant it every day in the kitchen,” he tells me. “It’s all about kitchen mindfulness.” “The Buddha way is actualized by rolling up your sleeves,” Zenko quotes, his favorite aphorism. This guides the entire community, from kitchen to fields. Each night, the Tenzo Kyokun instructs cooks to close their eyes and consider each and every one of their 80plus members—the same community that sits in silence each morning, that tends the farm with the same deliberate care. “To judge how much they're gonna eat or if they’re a little sick and eat a little less,” Zenko explains. He calls it “farmer zen”—not the elite samurai practice but the common wisdom of country temples. He knows who needs softer food, who’s recovering, who might be extra hungry from farm work. This attention saturates everything at Green Gulch. Every object receives consideration— brooms are positioned to preserve their bristles, ovens are given a full week off at New Year's. When I ask Zenko to define comfort without using warm, he says simply: “Intimacy is comfort. When you’re distant from what you’re doing or distant from yourself, that’s uncomfortable. To be intimate with ingredients, intimate with your body. And intimate with the present.” To demonstrate, he shows me his famous three-bean miso soup. “It can take whatever you put into it. If all you have is one shriveled carrot and half an onion and a little bit of sesame oil, you can make this soup.” “You’re forgiven for whatever you add.” The way he says it, I understand this extends beyond the kitchen. Green Gulch Farm Zen Center welcomes visitors for Sunday programs, retreats, and offers residential Zen apprenticeships—visit sfzc.org/green-gulch-farm for reservations and details. 1 Umpan mealtime gong 2 Zenko as Tenzo 3 13th century text 4 Contemplation 5 Orchard meditation On the next page 1 Comfort on a saddle—recipe courtesy of Zenko Montgomery 5 "Intimacy is comfort. When you're distant from yourself, that's uncomfortable." 3 4
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ediblesf.com | 21 Foggy monk soup Serves 8 This twist on the traditional Zen temple dish of "kenjin-jiru" brings in miso and sesame from Green Gulch Farm, and traditionally many specialty ingredients (konjac cakes, fried tofu, and taro). However, this method is entirely forgiving: Whatever you have on hand can be added without losing anything. Vegetarian dashi broth Ingredients: 1 piece of kombu 1 cup dried shiitake 8 cups water Soup base Ingredients: 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 medium carrot (peeled, thin sliced on the bias) 1 small delicata squash (knobs & ends trimmed, halved lengthwise, scooped, thin-sliced quarter moons) 1 cup hakurei turnip or daikon (peeled, thin-sliced quarter moons) 1 cup burdock/gobo (peeled, thin-sliced on the bias) optional 1 cup rehydrated shiitake from dashi (stems removed & sliced) 1 tbsp ginger (peeled & grated) Finishing touches Ingredients: 4 tbsp white miso 4 tbsp Chinese sesame paste or tahini 3 tbsp sake 2 tbsp tamari or soy sauce 1/2block firm tofu 1 scallion (root trimmed, sliced on the bias) 2 tbsp watermelon radish (peeled & finely grated) Instructions: The night before serving, add kombu, shiitake, and water to a pot. The next day, heat to bare simmer. Turn off and set aside. Remove kombu and shiitake. Reserve the shiitake if using in the soup. Prepare the soup base vegetables: In a small wok on high, heat the sesame oil. Once shimmering, add all (except the ginger) and sauté. Once covered with oil and slightly softened, add ginger and cook until fragrant. Turn off heat. Add sauteéed vegetables to the warmed dashi. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables have lost their bite, but aren’t falling apart, about 10 minutes. In a small bowl, place miso and sesame paste. Using a heatproof cup, sneak a good splash of warm broth into the mix (2 cups) and whisk together. Set aside. Add sake, tamari, and crumbled tofu to the pot. Cook for another 5 minutes or so. During that time, slice the scallions and grate the radish. Finally, using a rubber spatula, scrape the miso-tahini mix into the soup, stirring in slowly until completely dissolved. Turn off heat and serve immediately. Garnish with scallions and grated radish. 1
22 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 THE ORDER OF THINGS You know that feeling when you’ve been moving too fast for too long and suddenly the world makes you stop? That was me on my way to NewTree Ranch. Just 10 minutes outside Healdsburg, it’s like crossing into another frequency. The first time I went, I was rushing late, distracted, missing everything. The second time, I slowed down, windows open, redwoods flashing by, and the shift was immediate. NewTree Ranch isn’t just a place to stay; it’s a biodynamic sanctuary offering guests the chance to reconnect with the land through immersive activities. There are sound-healing sessions on the dock of Lake Andreas, guided equine meditations, and seasonal cooking workshops with ingredients pulled straight from the garden. Out of all of them, I chose the Bee Rewilding & Re-Population Experience partly because bees have always fascinated me, but mostly because it felt like a way to understand order through something wild. There’s this thing that happens at NewTree where time softens. You feel it first in your breath, then in your shoulders, and finally in how quiet your mind gets. I noticed it most as we climbed the massive trunk of an ancient redwood by ladder, 40 feet up, where a rewilding hive was nestled against the bark—suspended as if it had grown there all along. The whole ranch had gone still except for that low, steady hum of bees—not just sound, but vibration, energy, and order. Michael Thiele, Founder and Executive Director of Apis Arborea spoke with a calm, unhurried rhythm—his voice so soothing and full of quiet wisdom we could’ve listened for hours. He explained how bees communicate, how a hive organizes itself, how every movement serves the collective. Standing there, surrounded by the sound of their work, I remember thinking: they had it right from the beginning. Here we are, with all our tech and our networks, and the bees already figured it out. They’re nature’s original social system—connected, efficient, cooperative. Instead of chaos, they create harmony. Their hum felt ancient and alive at the same time, and it hit me how much we’ve confused connection with noise. The bees don’t overcomplicate it. They just belong. That feeling stayed with me—the sense that comfort can come from the simplest things. It was there again that night, at the outdoor pizza kitchen where we cooked with the chef. Vegetables picked straight from the garden— roasted eggplant, caramelized onion, heirloom tomatoes, squash, zucchini, broccoli, garlic, basil—became artfully wood-fired vegetable pizzas, each one different, each one a reflection of what the garden offered that day. The chef added a simple salad, gathered from the same garden—edible flowers and greens so fresh they barely needed dressing. The olive oils and vinegars were local and lovely, but unnecessary. It was one of those meals that makes you stop halfway through, realizing everything 1 What bees—and a margherita pizza in an apple tree—can teach us about finding calm in a chaotic world Writer—Heather Hartle Photography—Tri Nguyen
ediblesf.com | 23 1 The farmhouse villa 2 Flour meets fresh air 3 Roasting by the fire 4 A symphony of bees 5 An idyllic view On the next page 1 A new perspective— recipe courtesy of NewTree Ranch 2 3 4 tastes like the place you’re in. Later, in the apple orchard, we chose a classic margherita pizza—simple and perfect—for a photo, resting it at the base of the branches where they rise from the trunk, as if it had grown there, another offering of the orchard itself. The order of the trees struck me too—rows so perfectly aligned, yet apples scattered freely, perfectly imperfect. Earlier that afternoon, we’d picked some ourselves—honey-sweet, sun-warm, the kind that ruin you forever for store-bought. After dinner, we moved to the fire pit beneath an open sky. A beautifully curated s’mores kit awaited— handmade skewers, artisanal marshmallows, and bars of exquisite chocolate that somehow managed to be both simple and decadent. Someone passed the box around, and suddenly there we were —adults talking about bees and balance and life, eating s’mores like kids, laughter rising with the sparks into the night. When I woke the next morning, a fine, silvery drizzle softened everything—the fields, the oaks, the bright day before. From my villa, I watched the rain settle across the landscape, quiet and clean, like the world exhaling. Inside: Frette sheets and bathrobes, homemade jam, fresh strawberries on the counter—all of it quietly perfect without ever feeling precious. Outside, tucked behind the dahlia garden, a Balinese stone soaking tub waited with a view of the open sky—the kind of place where you can sink in at night and watch the stars until the world feels still again. It’s not luxury that separates you from the world; it’s the kind that brings you back to it. Edward Newell, the founder of NewTree Ranch, told me that guests often arrive vibrating from everyday life, phones in hand, nervous about being disconnected. Parents think it’ll be hard for their kids to unplug, but it’s usually the adults who struggle. The kids slip right into it, like they’re remembering something their parents forgot. Maybe that’s what finding comfort in unexpected places really means: not escaping the world but remembering how to be part of it again. The hum of the bees, the rhythm of the rain, the taste of tomatoes still warm from the garden—all of it reminding me that comfort isn’t out there waiting to be discovered. It’s been here all along, buzzing softly, just asking us to listen. NewTree Ranch is located just outside Healdsburg. Explore retreats, rentals, and experiences at newtreeranch. com. 5
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ediblesf.com | 25 Margherita pizzas Makes two 12-inch pizzas Pizza dough Ingredients: 3 1/2 cups "00" flour (or high-quality bread flour) 1 1/4 cups warm water (about 100°F) 1 packet (7g) active dry yeast 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Tomato sauce Ingredients: 1 lb ripe farm tomatoes (San Marzano, Roma, or heirloom) 1 small clove garlic, lightly crushed 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Sea salt, to taste Handful of basil leaves, torn For the toppings Ingredients: 8 oz fresh mozzarella (handmade or locally sourced) Fresh basil leaves Freshly grated Parmigiao Reggiano, for garnish Extra virgin olive oil, for finishing Instructions: Place baking steel or stone on lowest rack. Preheat to maximum temperature (500-550°F) for 45-minutes (steel) or 1 hour (stone). Use convection, if available, only during preheating. Make the dough: Dissolve yeast in warm water; let foam 5–10 minutes. Mix flour and salt. Add yeast mixture and oil. Knead 8–10 minutes, until smooth. Rise in oiled bowl until doubled, 1–11/2 hours. Prepare the Sauce: Blanch, peel, and crush tomatoes by hand. Sauté garlic in oil until fragrant. Add tomatoes, simmer 15 minutes. Season with salt, add torn basil. Remove garlic. Heat the Oven: Preheat as directed above. Shape and Top: Divide dough in half. Hand-stretch each to 12 inches. Spread thin sauce layer, torn mozzarella, basil leaves. Bake: Launch pizza onto steel/stone with floured peel. Bake 3–4 minutes, then broil 30–60 seconds for char. Total time: 4–6 minutes (steel) or 6–8 minutes (stone). Finish: Remove, drizzle with olive oil, add grated Parmigiano. Rest 1 minute before slicing. 1
26 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 PIER AND SIMPLE Writer—Alison Pollack Photography—Tri Nguyen A beginner's guide to the peaceful art of crabbing 1 2
ediblesf.com | 27 Winter in the Bay Area is undeniably dreary, but at the rocky intertidal zone where water meets land, there’s a touch of magic in the seaspray. A day by the water is gray, damp, and windy, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be pleasant, even cozy. There’s a community of enthusiasts who layer up, top off thermoses, and spend hours pierside seeking out a tender, briny, lemonand-butter-drenched feast: rock crabs. Rock crab fishing is beginner-friendly because no license is required to fish for them from city public piers. More plentiful and sustainable than the lauded but limited Dungeness, rock crabs are said to taste nearly the same, if a bit tougher (but my own taste test proved opposite). My crabbing curiosity got the best of me, and I set out for Torpedo Wharf in the Presidio. At the base of the Golden Gate Bridge and with sweeping views, this pier is almost disgustingly iconic. It only made sense to pick a postcard-perfect pier for my first solo crabbing experience. Minimal equipment is needed: a $20 crab snare (skip the $200 pots), bait such as squid, a fishing pole, and something to store your catch will do. Check out our gift guide for ideas, ranging from the essential to luxurious. Prior to my big crabby excursion, I visited a bait shop (angler-recommended Gus’s Discount Fishing Tackle is a great option). I found my husband’s dusty fishing pole and practiced casting. Easy enough. It was time to reel for real. Or you could skip the gear investment and book a guided excursion with The Art of Crabbing. Owner Alex Goffo—a former sushi chef who questioned why California rolls use fake crab in such a bountiful region—provides everything from equipment to cooking. These excursions are a great option for expert guidance. To ensure a future for crab-kind, the minimum size is 4 inches. The littles I kept catching were, frankly, adorable. I loved their tiny glistening eyes and how the color of their shells matched the International Orange of the bridge. I tossed them back, not even mad about sending them home and not to my dinner plate. Some might rather sip wine by the fireplace than face the wintery bayside elements. I get it. Whether you want to reenact “Deadliest Catch” like me or would rather watch it under blankets on the couch, there are options for everyone. Pier 45 or 47 are great places to buy the freshest crab straight from fishing boats, but since there are no set docking times, that’s a bit of an adventure in and of itself. Fresh Meat Seafood Market in the Mission is a wonderful market option. Finally, I caught a 5-inch rock crab that I felt great about taking home. I set the little guy on ice (ice slows them) and walked off the pier, saluted by nods from the other anglers. It was a happy farewell to a peaceful day. I never expected crabbing to feel so meditative. Processing crab can be simple. Funny enough, tickling their bellies soothes them. That’s likely because nerve centers are located down the middle of their underside, which happens to be the fastest and most painless area to dispatch them. Simply use a knife to pierce the direct center and underside of the crab. Although boiling crabs alive is the most hands-off method, it’s been proven that crabs feel pain (bummer, I know), so it’s better for the crab to get it over with quickly with something sharp. From there, it can be cleaned and then cooked. I opted to serve half the meat the classic way—with outrageous amounts of butter, garlic, and lemon, and the other half using James Beard Award finalist and Bay Area restaurateur Crystal Wahpepah’s sumptuous chili crab recipe (heads up, Crystal’s cookbook comes out this spring). It was delicious and felt so luxurious—like a meal on the final evening of a memorable vacation, not a Monday dinner at home. My single catch was a win, but felt more like an appetizer than dinner for two. Sure, I’m biased, but the few tablespoons of meat from my rock crab tasted better than the full dinner plate of Dungeness I purchased on the way home—the meat was more tender, the flavor more briny and clean. Plus, nothing beats the flavor of pride. I was damn proud of myself for catching that little pop-tart-sized crab. There’s a community on the piers, working towards the same goal and thoroughly enjoying themselves. There is so much joy and peace derived from spending time outdoors during the coldest, darkest time of year. Bundle up and capture a bit of that crisp, crabby winter magic for yourself—then douse it in butter. 1 Caught alive On the next page 2 Hunting 6 A comforting recipe 3 Catch and release 4 Presidio views 5 An idyllic view 5 3 4
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ediblesf.com | 29 Crystal Wahehpah's chili crab Makes two cups of sauce The chili sauce is delicate, flavorful, and surprisingly easy to make. You can opt for extra chili peppers if you like spicy, and let it all simmer longer than suggested for a beautiful red hue. Ingredients: 1 or 2 whole rock crabs (steamed, ready to serve) 1/2 cup pure maple syrup 2 tbsp of New Mexico chile powder 1/4 tsp salt 1 cup grapeseed oil 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 cup yellow onion, finely chopped 1 cinnamon stick 1 star anise pod 4 chile de árbol pods 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns 1 tbsp crushed New Mexican or California chile pods 1 tsp chile de árbol powder 1/4 tsp granulated onion 1/2 tsp granulated garlic 1 drop white vinegar Instructions: Whisk the maple syrup, oil, and salt in a medium saucepan over low heat until the salt dissolves. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow it to cool. Transfer the oil to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to two weeks or in the refrigerator for up to six months. Combine all the ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring the oil mixture to a gentle boil, turn the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes or longer if a more intense flavor is desired. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the oil to cool. Strain the oil through a fine-mesh strainer into a sealable glass container. Keep at room temperature for up to three weeks or in the refrigerator for up to six months. When oil is cooled. pour over whole crab and serve with lemon wedges. 6
30 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 EIGHT FLOORS UP Saturdays at 1 Hotels move between two worlds. By day, the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market right outside springs to life: Vendors arranging persimmons, first customers clutching coffee, the energy of a city waking. By sunset, eight floors above, the city softens into something more elemental: Water, sky, and silence. My girlfriend discovered this first. On New Year’s Eve, she’d booked one of the two rooftop tubs located at 1 Hotels’ Bamford Spa and rang in midnight alone with champagne and city lights. “It was my favorite New Year’s,” she told me, which seemed improbable until I found myself there. I found my own way in—arriving late and stressed on my first stay, missing dinner entirely, only to have the night staff surprise me with a mini cake delivered to my door as if missing meals was something they planned for, the first of many considerations I’d find. Now I’m the spa’s last appointment on a Saturday, the day already full of Ferry Building farmers market wandering and Primavera’s perfect chilaquiles eaten standing by the water, and a lavender sachet from Eatwell Botanics tucked in my pocket. The spa receptionist arranges the wooden tray with practiced care—nuts, apricots, and bonbons dusted with coconut. “Last appointment of the day,” she mentions, “so no rush.” The promise of a handbell to mark time feels quaint as she retreats, and my 30 minutes suddenly feel infinite. The hotel’s considerations revealed themselves in accumulated details: that five-minute shower timer turning water into a conscious ritual, Bamford products bridging spa and room, filtered water stations wherever thirst might find you. Each small gesture adds up to something larger: permission to slow down. Bamford Spa, born at Daylesford Farm in the English countryside, seems an unlikely match for an Embarcadero rooftop. Yet Carole Bamford's philosophy that wellness should be rooted in the land translates well here. The 30-minute tub soaks, newly introduced alongside quick lunch-break massages, fit the city's tempo: the executive between board meetings, the startup founder stealing Tuesday afternoons, and the Hayes Valley mom who calls it her one non-negotiable. The water smells like a blooming meadow floor as I slide in. Vertly’s arnica and lavender salts are released by heat, and I scoop in a few extra spoonfuls from the wooden bowl before my shoulders drop and soften. The Marin-based herbalists take up to three weeks to extract botanicals for each batch, the quality evident in how quickly the minerals work. Below, the 4:47 ferry pulls away from the terminal. Bamford Spa’s unexpected sanctuary above the Embarcadero. Thirty minutes of borrowed altitude, where Marin lavender meets maritime breeze Writer—Melody Saradpon Photography—Douglas Friedman & Tri Nguyen 1
ediblesf.com | 31 the geometry of downtown. Earlier I’d made plans—something about walking, something about catching a show. Gone. The cable car chimes as it glides on the rails. It sounds like it’s happening in another country. The breeze arrives just when the water feels too hot. Around me, Terrene’s rooftop garden transitions from fall to winter—thyme, sage, and rosemary. Herbs that, an hour later, would perfume my fries. The sun drops lower. So do I. The Ferry Building’s 5pm bells pull me from sleep. The spa’s handbell follows, redundant. By the time I descend to Terrene, I’m ravenous in that specific way that follows deep rest. The meal provided tastes like a map of the Bay. King trumpet mushrooms with harissa-bright sweet potato. Local halibut on forbidden rice, sparked with Aleppo chili. Za’atar fries where each herb stays distinct, plucked from the rooftop garden. Between bites, I piece together the story: morning market to evening plate, the day coming full circle. 1 Hotel’s connection to the Ferry Building runs deeper than proximity. Long before its official opening in 2022, the culinary and beverage team forged long-term relationships with the farmers and vendors who now supply Terrene’s kitchen and bar. They’re regulars at Foodwise fundraisers, from Sunday Suppers to Love Bites, supporting the nonprofit that keeps the market thriving. K&J Orchards’ pears—from the family whose daughter runs Michelin-acclaimed Pomet in Oakland—star in Terrene’s house shrub. By now, the cancelled plans and all those Saturday night intentions had dissolved somewhere between the 4:47 ferry and the 5pm bells. That Saturday taught me something about letting go: of plans, of time, of trying so hard. The comfort hadn't been in the luxury but in the accidents: falling asleep when I meant to relax, finding dinner when I'd planned to be elsewhere. Even now, Terrene captures something similar in their house shrub. Simple ingredients, a little patience, and unexpected brightness from letting things unfold. Experience Bamford Spa and book your stay at 1Hotels: 1hotels.com/san-francisco 1 Corner façade at sunset 2 Lush surroundings at Terrene 3 Rooftop wellness 4 A sustainable sanctuary On the next page 1 Cheers in a tub 2 3 4
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ediblesf.com | 33 Under The Pear Tree Makes 3-4 mocktails "Shrubs are one of those things that feel good to make and even better to drink. They’re bright, refreshing, and naturally good for you. The vinegar helps with digestion, the pear adds vitamin C, and the honey keeps it balanced.”—Andre Sierra, Beverage Manager, 1 Hotel San Francisco Ingredients: 1 ripe pear, sliced 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 1/2 cup of honey 1/2 cup white wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar) Sparkling water, to serve Instructions: Muddle pear slices and rosemary with honey in a jar. Add vinegar, stir to dissolve honey, and seal. Let sit 24 hours at room temperature, then strain. Serve 1 oz shrub with 4 oz sparkling water over ice. 1
34 | EDIBLE SF WINTER 2025 SWEAT STATE I normally wouldn’t recommend getting your life advice off of Instagram, but a post I saw there recently really hit home. It simply stated: “The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears, or the sea.” As an avid crier and a frequent beachgoer— fog or sun—I wondered: “But do I sweat enough?” Surely, we all perspire throughout the day, but I envisioned the kind of cathartic, purifying sweat that could count as self care. For that, I thought, it’s best to hit the sauna. This was an evolution. There was a time when sweating wasn’t for me. But on recent trips to Guatemala and NYC, I found myself happily drenched in beautiful, communal sauna settings, enamored by the way the heightened temperature slowed my mind, by the fact saunas practically dictate a phonefree interlude, by the freshness of reemerging back into the world a little warmer and a little less jaded. Luckily, the sauna had piqued my curiosity in a timely fashion. In a September 2025 article, the Wall Street Journal had declared the sauna as the “hottest place to network,” which means it’s been well embedded into the wellness conversation. This is right in line with the meteoric rise of the ritual’s alter ego, the cold plunge. More importantly, there’s never been a better time to sweat in the Bay Area, as saunas of different kinds, vibes, and cultural backgrounds have been popping up from Richmond to Sausalito. Offering tranquility, invigoration and, in many cases, community, these are the best saunas to dip your toes into this winter. Where the Bay Area goes to sweat Writer—Flora Tsapovsky Photography—Aysia Stieb, Alex Farnum, Raquel Venacio
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