THE NEW GUARD | SUMMER 2025 Member of Edible Communities edible san francisco
With over 30 beers on tap, wood-fired pizzas, and a full calendar of live music and lawn games, the Beer Garden is more than a dining spot —it’s your new favorite hangout. treehousehotels.com/silicon-valley WE TAKE YOUR WEEKEND VERY SERIOUSLY. PIZZA, BEER, WINGS, AND JENGA. Join the Bay Area Culinary Historians (BACH) for monthly curated events that celebrate California’s gastronomic history. To whet your appetite: July 27—An online conversation with Joyce Goldstein, owner of legendary San Francisco restaurant Square One and author of 30 books, in celebration of her 90th birthday. August 9—A recreation of a 1950’s meal at Trader Vic’s in Emeryville coupled with a presentation by George Geary, author of Made in California. September 28—The History of California Cheese, a presentation and tasting with Sue Conley of Cowgirl Creamery and Vivien Straus, creator of the “California Cheese Trail Map.” For more on all our events and online offerings, visit BayAreaCulinaryHistorians.org
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ediblesf.com | 3 is a network of magazines across the U.S. and Canada fall 2021 1 edible BOZEMAN Telling the Stories of Local Food & Drink Issue No. 10 • Fall 2021 edible BOZEMAN Issue No. 10 Fall 2021 Member of Edible Communities FALL 2023 WOLDY REYES ARRIVES No. 80 / SPRING 2024 Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season edible CAPECOD® MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES edibleeastbay.com | Fall 2024 1 edibleEAST BAY® Views on food and farming from east of the San Francisco Bay ² Since 2005 No. 76 ² Fall 2024 Member of Edible Communities SUMMER 2024 57 The Land • Berry Bright Summer • Wild Game A member of Edible Communities Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin edible MAINE MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES WHY MAINE IS THE BEST / OUR FOOD TASTES BETTER / SAILING AND LOBSTER, WHAT’S BETTER? MAINE SPRING PEARS THE WAY FOOD SHOULD BE... HOLIDAY 2023 PLUS: HIP-HOP + CANNABIS DASHEEDA DAWSON THE WIDE WORLD OF WEED ISSUE ROMILLY NEWMAN PARTY THE EdibleNEFlorida.com 1 Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season Member of Edible Communities ISSUE FORTY EIGHT | September/October 2023 FOOD & ART Master Iss48.indd 1 8/25/23 1:34 PM SPRING 2024 Number 37 ediblePHILLY FOOD & COMMUNITY IN PHILADELPHIA AND BEYOND LOCAL HEROES Rhubarb Recipes The Perks of Fermentation A Very Cheesy Goodbye PLUS ISSUE 45 • SUMMER/FALL 2020 LOYAL TO LOCAL edible Santa Barbara & Wine Country Cuyama Lamb, Stewards for the Land God’s Country Provisions Life in Balance How to Write a Food Blog During a Pandemic and National Crisis ® ISSUE 30 • NOVT/DEC 2024 edible VANCOUVER ISLAND Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands Member of Edible Communities ISSUE 30 • NOV/DEC 2024 Gift Boxes • Orange Wine • Santa Snacks edible VANCOUVER & WINE COUNTRY FROZEN BERRIES . BETTER BUTTER . VEGAN BREAD Member of Edible Communities NO. 93 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 NO.12 | SUMMER 2023 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food NEW BRUNSWICK - PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - NOVA SCOTIA Proud Member of Edible Communities edible Maritimes edible MENDOCINO & LAKE COUNTIES Celebrating Local Food and Drink, Season by Season Volume 1, Issue 1 Fall 2023 Mushroom Recipes to Fall ‘Inn’ Love With Meet the New Executive Chef at the Inn at Newport Ranch Rex Pickett, Author of Sideways, Returns to the Anderson Valley Tall Guy Brewery, Fort Bragg’s Newest Taproom Member of Edible Communities NO. 1 SUMMER 2023 Wild Finds edible newfoundland & labrador the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food We are part of something bigger! Scan to learn more SERVING NORTHEAST WISCONSIN A member of Edible Communities Premier Issue SPRING/SUMMER2024 • 1 Summer 2021 Summer 2021 Summer 2021 FALL 2024 • ISSUE No. 35 edible silicon valley BAY AREA PENINSULA & SOUTH BAY Eat Drink Local: Los Gatos • San Mateo Silicon Valley’s Wine Families • Revival of the Gut • Cultivating Cacao In Praise of Dirt • Broccoli Rabe US $7.95 OR Local Patron Copy EAT • DRINK • GROW • THINK Member of Edible Communities Celebrating local farms food and vineyards of Prescott, Flagstaff, Sedona and the Verde Valley Proud Member of Edible Communities edible CENTRAL ARIZONA THE STORIES AND CELEBRATION OF FOOD AND DRINK OCTOBER 2024 WE’RE BACK! Staff Picks / Holiday Menus / Hoosier Distilleries / World Food Championships MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES in this issue: Finding Flavor in the Heartland MOCKTAILS: MUCH MORE THAN JUICE
4 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 THE NEW GUARD 16 The 7x7 Vanguard Why America's culinary future lives here 20 Eat Slow and Break Things No heroes needed: Atomic Workshop's culinary triangle powers collective brilliance 22 Marginalized Varietals Christopher Renfro's defiant harvest 28 The $32 Schnitzel That Conquered San Francisco Sundays Inside the joy-first formula behind the city's hottest pop-up sensation 30 From Carp To Crane Chef Parry is the playful perfectionist rewriting Chinese cuisine with unexpected twists 32 Design Eras on Speed Dial Landline is where color-coded cool elevates your entertaining game 34 Culture Calendar RECIPES 36 Peppery Sausage Bahn Mi 38 Baklava Pancakes 40 Las Palmas Cocktail Ice Pops CONTENTS STARTERS 12 Hot New Restaurants San Francisco’s latest crop of openings makes a strong case for dining out with curiosity 15 Editor's Orders ON THE COVER: Madlab Kakigori's Berries Me Alive signature dessert. Photo—Melody Saradpon Happy Crane's toasted coconut tart with cherries. Photo—Jeremy Chiu Projection mapped dining at The Radiant Table. Photo—Aubrie LaGault Caché restaurant interior. Photo—Joseph Weaver. Top: Cafe Sebastian's octopus tentacle with a velvety sauce. Photo—Gamma Nine Photography Bottom: Bar Brucato's saffron pici pasta with sardines. Photo—David Dines
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6 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 August 1 - September 30, 2025 America’s Farmers Market Celebration™ (AFMC) is the only annual ranking of the top farmers markets in the United States as voted on by the public. Since 2008, the AFMC has highlighted the important role farmers markets play in communities across the nation while celebrating the farmers, staff, and volunteers who make markets happen. Markets.Farmland.Org
ediblesf.com | 7 TUESDAYS Ferry Plaza Farmers Market 10am–2pm Market Street on the Embarcadero WEDNESDAYS Heart of the City Farmers Market (Civic Center) 7am-5pm Fulton and Larkin Parnassus Farmers Market (UCSF) 10am-3pm 505 Parnassus Ave. (Arguello Blvd. and 3rd Ave.) Mission Bay Farmers Market (UCSF) 10am-2pm 550 Gene Friend Way (between 3rd and 4th St.) Kaiser Permanente Farmers Market 10am-2pm Geary at St. Joseph’s St. VA Farmers Market (Outer Richmond) 10am-2pm 42nd Ave. and Clement Castro Farmers Market 4pm-8pm Noe at Market St. THURSDAYS San Francisco State Farmers Market 10am-3pm 19th Ave. and Holloway Ferry Plaza Farmers Market 10am-2pm Market Street on the Embarcadero Mission Community Market 4pm-8pm March-November Mission and 22nd Street SATURDAYS Alemany Farmers Market 6am-2:30pm 100 Alemany Blvd. Noe Valley Farmers Market 8am-1pm 3861 24th St. (Sanchez and Vicksburg) Fillmore Farmers Market 9am-1pm O'Farrell at Fillmore Ferry Plaza Farmers Market 8am-2pm Market Street on the Embarcadero SUNDAYS Fort Mason Farmers Market 9:30am-1:30pm Fort Mason Center, Marina Blvd. Inner Sunset Farmers Market 9am-1pm 1315 8th Ave. (between 8th and 9th Ave.) Clement Street Farmers Market (Inner Richmond) 9am-2pm 200 Clement (between 3rd and 4th Ave.) Stonestown Farmers Market 9am-1pm 3251 20th Ave. Heart of the City Farmers Market 7am-5pm 1182 Market St. (McAllister and 7th St.) Divisadero Farmers Market 10am–2pm Grove and Divisadero Outer Sunset Farmers Market & Mercantile 9am-1pm 1994 37th Ave. (between Ortega and Quintara) SAN FRANCISCO FARMERS MARKET GUIDE FOR SUMMER
8 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 Edible SF Summer 2025 EDITOR & PUBLISHER Melody Saradpon PUBLISHER Tony Garnicki PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR Heather Hartle ART DIRECTOR Melody Saradpon CONTRIBUTORS Daisy Barringer Steph Keay Rachel Levin Irvin Lin Virginia Miller Adrian Spinelli Flora Tsapovsky Annelies Zijderveld FOUNDER Bruce Cole ADVERTISING SALES info@ediblesf.com FOLLOW US @ediblesf Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and bring it to our attention. CONTRIBUTORS omnivore BOOKS ON FOOD a a new antiquarian collectible 3885a cesar chavez street (at church st.) san francisco, ca 94131 phone: 415.282.4712 omnivorebooks.com a
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10 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 Letter from the Editor San Francisco devours and rebuilds itself constantly. A city forever changing its skin. As the new Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of Edible San Francisco, I’m inheriting a publication filled with a legacy bearing witness to decades of evolution. The pages of Edible San Francisco have always captured this perpetual motion—I step into this role with profound respect for what preceded me, and a frank determination about what comes next. My approach to this stewardship embraces contradictions: respecting tradition and seeking disruption, acknowledging the present while imagining the future, and pushing forward with advised precision guided by unsanctioned intuition. We call this issue THE NEW GUARD because San Francisco has proven it punches far above its weight class. There’s no shortage of innovation or adaptability within this 7x7 city gem—a fractal full of infinite complexity and delight that refuses to calcify even as it transforms. Within these pages are stories that were chosen to represent the edges of where innovation occurs—an organic winery and farm against housing projects, a bizarre pop-up outshining culinary titans, a hospitality group breaking hierarchies. This isn’t about trends, it’s about how our city calibrates when convention falters. The New Guard doesn’t represent people, it represents a perspective. I honor the past by reshaping it. My commitment to you is to continue evolving this publication with the same creative energy that defines our city. This transformation isn’t something I undertake alone—as readers, you are essential partners in this reinvention. Your experiences, discoveries, and hunger for authentic stories will shape Edible San Francisco as much as my editorial decisions. The magazine in your hands will continue to change. It must. San Francisco demands nothing less. I invite you to evolve alongside us. Forward, Melody Saradpon Editor-in-Chief & Publisher
ediblesf.com | 11 Virginia Miller is a writer/ editor at over 60 global publications. Miller’s The Perfect Spot and Substack cover global dining, drink, and travel. Judge and consultant, she’s visited 15k+ restaurants and equal bars, leads global awards panels, and is Chairperson for The World’s and North America’s 50 Best Restaurants and James Beard Awards. Flora Tsapovsky is a food and culture writer living in the Bay Area. She covers emerging trends and fascinating people. Her work has appeared in Conde Nast Traveler, Wired, Elle, Food & Wine, and many more. Irvin Lin is former designer and art director turned nationally-recognized cookbook author, food writer, recipe developer, photographer and ceramicist. His blog, Eat the Love, was established in 2010. He is serving his second year on the James Beard Foundation Book Award Subcommitee. Adrian Spinelli is a Brazilian-born, San Francisco-based arts & culture writer who has lived in the city for over 15 years. His work focuses on the intersection of music, food, drinks, and travel, and he also leads food tours through the city. Daisy Barringer is a journalist covering food, travel, and culture. She grew up in San Francisco and has an MFA from UNC Wilmington—or, as she prefers to say, a three-year stint at creative writing summer camp. Annelies Zijderveld covers food, music, and culture. Her food writing appears in epicurious, The Kitchn, Eating Well, Simply Recipes, EaterSF, and other publications. She authored Steeped: Recipes Infused with Tea and teaches cooking classes in San Francisco. Steph Keay is a storyteller with a sharp palate and a soft spot for cheese, food-inspired fashion, and her dog, Sushi. A lifelong curiosity about food fuels her writing and hobbies, which include reverse-engineering dishes and thrifting for quirky cookbooks. CONTRIBUTORS WRITER Daisy Barringer WRITER Steph Keay WRITER Irvin Lin WRITER Adrian Spinelli WRITER Virginia Miller WRITER Flora Tsapovsky WRITER Annelies Zijderveld Mars is a self-taught artist from California. With influences spanning Japanese alt-fashion, pop culture, pin-up, and art nouveau, her work showcases women with strong femme energy, using quirky, bold shapes. ILLUSTRATOR Mars Barnett
12 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 Photo by Hardy Wilson HOT NEW RESTAURANTS Writer—Daisy Barringer From an amaro distillery with a serious snack game to a French bistro plating octopus hot dogs, San Francisco’s latest crop of openings makes a strong case for dining out with curiosity—and exploring beyond your usual haunts. Spanning the Financial District to the Outer Sunset, these five spots prove that even in a city spoiled for choice, there’s always a plate, a pour, or even a popsicle that makes leaving your neighborhood totally worth it. Plot Twist: A New Classic for the Sunset FIFTY VARA Housed in the former Sunset Reservoir Brewing space, Fifty Vara isn’t starting something new on 25th Avenue—it’s picking up where things left off and filling a space the neighborhood truly missed. The menu stays approachable and satisfying, with seasonal plates, elevated bar bites, and the Vara Burger—a satisfying bistro-style classic that’s a welcome break from the city’s smashburger obsession. The drinks follow suit: house-brewed beers, a shifting wine list, and delightfully drinkable cocktails like the Golden Hour, which—yes, of course —goes down even better at golden hour. The bi-level space is airy and inviting, filled with natural light by day, a glow by night, and a cascade of plants doing their best to remind you to take a deep breath, exhale, and sink into a chill night full of good food and that stay-a-while feeling. Like its namesake—a nod to San Francisco’s earliest land plots—Fifty Vara is rooted in local spirit, but built for what’s next. fiftyvarasf.com Michelin-Caliber Food, Inner Sunset Cool CACHÉ The Inner Sunset is beloved for its lowkey charm, satisfying sandwiches, and quietly standout Japanese food—but it’s not exactly where you’d expect to find two French expats with Michelinstar pedigrees. Cue Caché. Chef Simon Mounier and Florent Thomas have brought their dream to life on 9th Avenue with a charming bistro that’s refined but relaxed—because let’s be real, anything too buttoned-up wouldn’t fly in a neighborhood built on laid-back local favorites. The octopus “hot dog” is getting early buzz (because, well, it’s an octopus hot dog), but it’s dishes like the seabream sashimi—served in the curve of the whole fish—and the perfectly crisp skate wing, both executed with equal parts precision and play, that show what this kitchen is about. With its sun-dappled patio and quietly confident hospitality, Caché doesn’t try to compete with the neighborhood’s staples—it just adds something new to love. cache-sf.com Photo—Joesph Weaver Photo—Zax Avila
ediblesf.com | 13 A Bar Built on Bitterness (and Balance) BAR BRUCATO Bar Brucato might just be the most Mission thing to open in a while: inventive, rooted in place, and proudly bitter—in the best possible way. The team behind Brucato Amaro officially put down roots with their first brick-and-mortar: a distillery-meets-bar-meets-dinner spot designed for sipping, snacking, and staying awhile. The cocktail list is the star, featuring their trio of housemade amaros (Woodlands, Chaparral, Orchards), seasonal liqueurs, and thoughtful N/A options like the surprisingly complex Natural Bridges. But the food more than holds its own—walking the line between coastal Italian and California creative with dishes like spicy lamb meatballs, housemade bottarga spaghetti, and an octopus confit skewer glazed with chaparral tomato. And if you’re curious about what goes into those bottles? You can book a tour of their expanded distillery, complete with a welcome spritz, tasting flight, and a behind-the-scenes look at the Brucato process. Bitter may be their signature flavor, but at Bar Brucato, the experience is anything but. brucatoamaro.com A Pyramid Scheme We Can Get Behind CAFÉ SEBASTIAN/ MADLAB Tucked beneath the Transamerica Pyramid, Café Sebastian is an upscale daytime café from James Beardrecognized Chef Bradley Kilgore, serving craveable plates and house-baked pastries. Inside, you’ll also find MadLab Kakigori —a playful concept from his pastry-chef wife, Soraya CaraccioliKilgore —offering Japanese-style shave ice and house-made gelato. The pancakes are the showstopper—stacked with yuzu curd, sesame whipped cream, and macadamia brittle—but the menu holds its own with Japanese-inspired lunch plates, seasonal pastries, and a weekendonly curry butter smashburger that’s already making quiet waves among those in the know. The sleek, soft-edged space balances modern lines with warmth, featuring high ceilings, curved banquettes, and just enough light to make everything— and everyone—look good. It threads the needle between elegant and easygoing, and serves as a welcome reminder that even in a city full of brunch spots, there’s still room to be surprised. cafesebastiansf.com A New Finish for the Mission’s Drink Scene BIG FINISH For years, the Mission’s drink identity has leaned beer-first, tequila-second, and should we do a shot of Fernet? third. Big Finish is shifting the conversation — with a relaxed, wine-focused tavern that makes by-the-glass drinking feel fun, affordable (most pours are under $14), and refreshingly unfussy. It’s got the kind of easy energy that makes group hangs and solo sips equally appealing with over 50 wines by the glass (plus a few beers), a rotating mix of low- and no-ABV cocktails, and a comfortforward food menu — think pimento cheese with Ritz crackers and carrot miso risotto. It’s also one of the few places in the Mission serving real food until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, which is saying something in a neighborhood where your only late-night options usually involve a tortilla. Wines are organized by—yup, you guessed it—finish: crisp, medium, big, orangey, bubbly. It’s a setup that makes ordering intuitive, whether you’re chasing minerality or just want something new. And if you’re not sure? The staff is the good kind of helpful: informed, enthusiastic, and not even a little bit smug. bigfinishsf.com Photo—David Dines KAKIGORI Photo—Gamma Nine Photography
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ediblesf.com | 15 : EDITOR'S ORDERS WOOD-FIRED WHOLE FISH Fleetwood in Calistoga Heather Hartle Honestly, I wasn't expecting to be so wowed by this dish, but it completely caught me off guard. The whole Pacific striped bass arrives straight from the wood-fired oven, crisped and golden, surrounded by a tangle of squash ribbons and bright pickled onions. What sets it apart is the Moroccan spice blend — cumin, turmeric, and ginger — that adds a warm, fragrant depth without overpowering the fish's delicate flavor. The fennel-avocado dressing is silky and unexpected, and its presentation is both refined and inviting, like something you'd stumble upon at a sunlit seaside café. Add warm pita and tzatziki, and you're golden. 1880 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga ANCHOVIES & BUTTER TOAST Delfina Rachel Levin Anchovy Bar is the city's best-known restaurant for little fishes and those who love them. Like me and my Anchovy Club, a monthly umami-packed potluck some friends and I started a decade ago. Usually, we cook at home — except for a quarterly reservation out (at Anchovy Bar, of course). There are, however, other anchovies in the sea. I recently demanded we add Delfina to the mix, if only for one appetizer: Anchovies & Butter on Toast ($12). A simple set of just that — anchovies, hailing from one of two makers in the tiny Amalfi Coast fishing village of Cetara; butter (cold, high-fat European-style churned in Oregon), peeled like carrots; and stacked atop thick cuts of Italian Acme, sprinkled with EVOO and salt, and gently toasted. Four of the best bites in all of San Francisco (or eight, or twelve, or sixteen…). Even as a tin and jar-carrying member of the Anchovy Club, somehow it’s not as easy to replicate Delfina's genius as it sounds. 3621 18th Street ENDIVE SALAD Good Good Culture Club Annelies Zijderveld My fondness for chicory suggests that, in the right hands, its punchy flavor can be tamed while still outshining the latest green darling of the salad world. Good Good Culture Club's approach features a hot mustard vinaigrette that doesn't quite clear your sinuses but certainly wakes up your taste buds, coating endive and radicchio leaves that snap in your mouth. That's all well and good. I crave this salad for the additions too — Thai basil leaf pesto drizzles, juicy bursts of Cara Cara orange, pepitas, and tofu that's smoked in-house, grated over the top for a subtle husky flavor note that brings it all together. 3560 18th Street SAVORY GRAIN PORRIDGE Kantine Irvin Lin Though I’m known for my baked goods and wrote a baking cookbook years ago, I’m secretly Team Savory when it comes to breakfast. My current favorite is the savory grain porridge from Kantine, the Scandinavian-inspired café on Market Street and Laguna. It’s a satisfying warm bowl of three different grains, wild mushrooms, kale, and farmer’s cheese. I always opt for the additional crumbled bacon and runny egg on top for an extra salty and savory punch. But even without those extras, it’s a surprisingly complex bowl of flavors and textures that never disappoints. Bonus: I never feel sluggish or slow after eating, I just feel like I’m ready to take on whatever the day has to offer. 1906 Market Street Illustrations—Mars Barnett
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ediblesf.com | 17 WHY AMERICA’S CULINARY FUTURE LIVES HERE Small city, massive influence: how SF’s compact grid outperforms cities triple its size Writer—Virginia Miller Photo—Hardy Wilson THE 7X7 VANGUARD
18 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 A question I’m constantly asked in my global travels as a dining and drink writer, judge, and consultant: What’s your favorite restaurant? For many, it seems a simple question. Surely one place must reign supreme? But when you’ve dined at nearly 15,000 restaurants over a couple of decades, as I have, that’s impossible. There are hundreds of cuisine styles and cultural contexts: traditional to mashups, high to low, endless cuisine subcategories. Even asking about a favorite pizza prompts more questions: which style? Neapolitan? NY? Chicago deep dish or tavern-thin? Detroit? St. Louis? I can list favorites in each. Though San Francisco spans just 49 square miles (7x7 across)—1/7 the size of New York, 1/10 of Los Angeles—the city is densely packed with excellence across virtually every category, thanks to three essential factors many cities lack as a package: • Some of the best ingredients in the world • Innovative chefs in a city built on boundary-pushing • Historic, deep diversity in tight, interwoven neighborhoods Yes, SF has faced tough challenges: from pandemic and inflation to being unfairly scapegoated as a stand-in for perceived “leftist” ills with outsized “doom loop” talk mostly from people who don’t live here or visit. Facts speak: violent crime rates remain among the lowest for major U.S. cities, and independent, creative small businesses still dominate our neighborhoods, not chains. I grew up in NYC and LA suburbs, both titans of American cuisine. But I’ve long said without hesitation: SF is the city that most “schooled me.” It’s the best food city in the U.S. and one of the best in the world. That’s not hyperbole. As an Academy Chair for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and for just-launched North America’s 50 Best—to name but a few places I judge—I travel globally half of every month, obsessively researching dining and drink. I log spreadsheets, studying context, history, and evolution. SF continues to check every box. Still, colleagues from everywhere ask me, “Is SF okay?” with a tone of pity. Despite the same struggles facing the entire industry, we remain a vibrant dining city, led by a New Guard pushing forward, long-time veterans holding firm, and chefs from the last 10 to 15 years fully hitting their stride. Don’t even get me started on drinks and other edible realms. Dozens of classic restaurants (some over a century old) still shine. Some from the last 50 years remain iconic, like Zuni Café, Anchor Oyster Bar, and Chez Panisse. At Acquerello since 1989, one of the nation’s greatest female chefs, Suzette Gresham, keeps two Michelin stars. Boulevard continues its legacy by reinventing itself under Dana Younkin, partnering with Nancy Oakes, a pioneer in California Cuisine since the ’90s. SF’s past 15 years have birthed many of the nation’s best restaurants, better than ever now: State Bird Provisions and The Progress, Nightbird, Atelier Crenn, Rich Table, Californios, Saison, Angler, Prubechu, Aziza, Liholiho Yacht Club, Sorrel, Sons & Daughters, Flour + Water, Who’s carrying forward the Bay Area’s trailblazing ethos since the 1960s of farm-fresh ingredients, seasonal menus, diverse cultural roots, with a vision for this Brave New World? Previous page: Merchant Roots' 'In Bloom' hummingbird dessert. Photo—Merchant Roots. Above: Catfish Dumplings at Prelude. Photo—Annette Chu. NEW GUARD
ediblesf.com | 19 Above left: Milk and Honey at Merchant Roots. Photo—Merchant Roots. Above right: The Wild's famous caviar sundae. Photo—Joesph Weaver. Quince and Cotogna, Nari and Kin Khao, Mister Jiu’s, Rintaro, Besharam, Commis in Oakland, to name but a few. But who’s leading now, in this era shaped by seismic industry shifts? Who’s carrying forward the Bay Area’s trailblazing ethos since the 1960s of farm-fresh ingredients, seasonal menus, diverse cultural roots, with a vision for this Brave New World? Fifteen thousand restaurants later, I’ve never seen anything like what Ryan Shelton is doing at Merchant Roots — not even at Grant Achatz’s themed Next in Chicago. Launched in 2019 with eight seats in the back of a wine shop, it moved into a massive SoMa space in 2024, offering immersive, multisensory dinners that blend art, video, an open kitchen, a wine room, and even a ceramics studio. Whether exploring class systems in England in the era of Thackeray’s Vanity Fair, “eggs and broken things” in their Humpty Dumpty theme, or even what mermaids eat, there's no experience like it… anywhere. Chef Shelton confirms: “The core of San Franciscans who prioritize this city’s culture and social awareness will always be here to innovate food and be a part of a continually thriving restaurant community… we’re always trying to bring the dining experience places it has never been, and, more and more, I’m thrilled to see others doing the same.” Marc Zimmerman and Peggy Tran reinvented the modern Japanese restaurant Gozu as The Wild in late 2024. Still centered around a binchotan grill and chef’s counter, The Wild explores wild-foraged West Coast ingredients (caviar sundaes, anyone?) Francis Ang’s Abacá remains one of the country’s most exciting modern Filipino spots— more casual than Chicago’s Kasama, but equally innovative, especially in Fisherman’s Wharf. For modern Southern food, few do it with the whimsical elegance of Celtin Hendrickson-Jones at new Prelude. Obsessed with Southern cuisine in its regional forms, I’m giddy over his smoked catfish dumplings in crawfish étouffée, for starters. Mike Lanham’s Anomaly takes a more minimalist approach to Southern food, winking at Waffle House hash browns with hash brown ice cream in truffle-parmesan foam, fried shallots, and caviar. In modern Indian food, innovation abounds: brothers Sujan and Pujan Sarkar’s new TIYA wins, even in their vegetarian dishes. While they once led the kitchen at ROOH SF, Valice Francis now carves out his vision there. Srijith Gopinathan—formerly the only US Indian chef with two Michelin stars—has since launched more casual, hip Copra in SF, Ettan in Palo Alto, and just opened Eylan in Menlo Park. Brand new Caché is a fresh take on French cuisine from two expats from France, served in a tiny space. Oakland’s new Jaji, from married duo Sophie Akbar and Paul Iglesias (also of the modern Colombian gem Parche), is redefining modern Afghan cuisine. Meanwhile, husband-wife team Sayat and Laura Ozyilmaz bring Cal-Turkish to life, blending his Istanbul roots with her Mexico City technique in the magical Presidio. I’m just getting started. After 24 years living here, delicious originality does not wane. SF may be small, but it punches far above its weight. It’s a city of visionaries, of chefs, makers, and artisans who care deeply about what we eat and how we eat it. No, I’m not a native. But I proudly call SF home. The New Guard is taking us forward, bravely and boldly, despite the setbacks of recent years, despite today’s precarious state. And it is (still) the best food city in the nation.
20 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 nd photos—Melody Saradpon EAT SLOW and BREAK THINGS No heroes needed: Atomic Workshop's culinary triangle powers collective brilliance Writer—Steph Keay Photos—Kristen Loken IF you’ve eaten at State Bird Provisions, The Progress, or The Anchovy Bar, you know that no two experiences are the same. One champions an ever-evolving array of small plates, served dim sum-style. Another is an ode to the abundance of Northern California, and the third is a love letter to anchovies and other low-onthe-food-chain ocean catches. Despite their distinct personalities, all are bound by a collaborative spirit that consistently delivers an exceptional experience. At the center is Atomic Workshop Restaurant Group, led by chef-pastry chef duo Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, whose inventive approach to hospitality is redefining restaurants not just in San Francisco, but nationally. Across their trio of restaurants, they’ve earned some of the industry’s highest honors, including a 2025 nomination for the James Beard “Outstanding Restaurateur” Award. Their philosophy is simple: when you invest in your team, the effects trickle down to the guests. “I think there's a huge benefit to creating places that are happy existences,” says Brioza. Atomic doesn’t just run restaurants; it builds ecosystems where creativity can flourish. One powerful practice they’ve implemented is using internal newsletters, which include snapshots of new dishes, staff spotlights, guest reviews, and even unexpected deep dives—like the story behind the irreverent bathroom art at State Bird. These updates are sent to the entire team across Atomic, giving staff a glimpse into what’s happening beyond their own restaurant. Another major boon in strengthening the sense of community is the commissary kitchen shared by State Bird and The Progress. “Each kitchen is its own workshop, but they're all triangulated through the commissary,” says Brioza. This infrastructure enables them to diversify ingredients between the three restaurants. Trim from the chile roja-roasted lamb at The Progress might appear as a Merguez at State Bird. “One of the slogans in the commissary is that the compost bin is a missed creative opportunity.” Brioza and Krasinski already hold a 2015 James Beard Award for Best Chef: West for State Bird, but while they’ve never chased awards, the latest nomination Top: The Progress dining room. Left: Steamed egg tofu cart at State Bird Provisions. Right: Semifreddo at The Progress. NEW GUARD
ediblesf.com | 21 Christopher Renfro's defiant harvest Writer and Photos—Melody Saradpon Though Brioza and Krasinski jokingly refer to themselves as “old timers,” they are un-deniably part of the new guard, representing a shift away from the cult of the chef model toward something more sustainable and collaborative. Above: Chef Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski. feels different “in a very mature way,” says Brioza. “It’s pretty empowering.” The Outstanding Restaurateur award celebrates not only chefs, but visionaries who are shaping the future of hospitality; those who showcase creativity in leadership and use their establishments to build community. This kind of recognition isn’t just about what’s on the plate—it’s an affirmation of the people, culture, and systems they’ve built around it. “We're not those scrappy young cooks anymore,” Brioza explains. Their view of what it means to be a chef has also shifted, from the longtime stereotype of the one tethered to the stove every night, to being architects of a culture where everyone can thrive. Brioza likens a chef’s career to a marathon. “You don’t sprint a marathon,” he says. “In your 20s, you’re sprinting every single day.” Krasinski adds, “When I look back on the years I did that, there's not a day that I regret doing that...but there is a point where it's okay in your career for that to [shift].” They have worked hard to establish a framework that supports the concept of evolution in their restaurants. “Heroism in restaurants is a romantic idea, but at the end of the day, it fizzles out because it’s too much on one person,” says Brioza. “I think the secret to our success is that everybody's supported, and nobody [has] to be a hero.” The transition from wide-eyed cooks to thoughtful leaders is also one that Brioza and Krasinski find joy in guiding. “After 35 years of cooking, it's fun to navigate those waters with our chefs and see them have those same successes that we had,” Brioza says, referring to those exciting moments of discovery and the process of rendering instincts into recipes. They have also noticed that younger chefs increasingly use personal storytelling to shape their culinary identities. “Something very unique to San Francisco is the diversity,” he explains. “What’s amazing is when you see people do a deep dive into their own heritage, but contemporize it through a lens of, perhaps, what they've learned in restaurants like ours.” State Bird has had a lasting impact on San Francisco’s dining scene in that sense, by proving that with enough heart and soul, anything is possible. Brioza also says that authenticity doesn't start at the beginning. “It's something you evolve into, and that's the journey that I think is really fascinating for young chefs.” The restaurants under Atomic offer a refreshing vision of what the industry could be. Though Brioza and Krasinski jokingly refer to themselves as “old timers,” they are undeniably part of the new guard, representing a shift away from the cult of the chef model toward something more sustainable and collaborative. And while they may not take themselves too seriously, they’re serious about building restaurants that feel like happy, lasting places for the people who power them. “We’ve worked really hard to create businesses that we can step to the side of a bit, where people love working,” Brioza explains. These are places where people want to stay, grow, and lead, and where community comes before ego. It’s simple, he says. “Happy cooks make happy food.”
22 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 MARGINALIZED NEW GUARD Writer and photos—Melody Saradpon Above: Renfro's hilltop views of Alemany farm and winery.
ediblesf.com | 23 VARIETALS Christopher Renfro doesn't fit any conventional image of a food and wine revolutionary. No family vineyard in Napa. No European apprenticeship. No traditional path into an industry that guards its gates. Yet standing beside him between rows of tenacious hybrid grapevines, I watch as his gaze sweeps across this unexpected landscape–abundant rows of organic produce, chain-link fences, and the silhouettes of 151 low-income housing units. I'm witnessing the Bay Area's most radical wine innovator at work. "Honestly, this view never gets old," he smiles, "It's the perfect way to start my day." This is the 280 Project—San Francisco's only vine-yard and arguably the most audacious challenge to wine's established order in decades. Where traditional vintners seek pristine countryside isolation, Renfro has deliberately chosen the opposite: a steep hillside at Alemany Farm, flanked by a freeway. It's a setting that would horrify traditionalists who equate winemaking with generational estates. For Renfro, that's precisely the point. The statistics tell the story: representation of people of color in wine production, distribution, and education remains disproportionately low. With the United States being home to 11,600 operating wineries to date, less than 1% of them are Black owned, according to the Association of African American Vintners (AAAV). While the industry has recently acknowledged these disparities, meaningful structural change has been slow, with many diversity initiatives criticized as superficial. Renfro's journey began with the vineyard. Drawn to the steep hillside of Alemany Farm with its unlikely urban setting, he established the 280 Project as a direct challenge to the wine industry's established norms. During his time there, he quickly noticed something that would expand his mission: the stark contrast between the agricultural abundance and the neighboring community's limited access to fresh food. We pause at the outdoor kitchen. Beyond it, collard greens unfurl in filtered sunlight beside sculptural kale and fragrant herbs—all ripe, untouched. Through a rusted chain-link fence, concrete courtyards of Alemany Apartments lie just steps away. The divide is visually striking: abundance and scarcity separated by a barrier, both physical and symbolic. "I noticed all this food growing here, but the neighbors weren't eating it," Renfro explains, recounting his early observations at Alemany Farm. This disconnect catalyzed his next project. Along with his friend Haley Garabato (previously Nisei's sous chef), he established the Feed The People Collective— an outdoor cooking school and pop-up restaurant that served the residents of Alemany Apartments and local neighbors completely free for three years. Sourcing ingredients directly from the adjacent organic farm, they created a hyperlocal food system that eliminated both physical and economic barriers to fresh, healthy meals. "I would go door-to-door and ask how many plates they wanted," he says, pausing at the now-quiet outdoor kitchen where thousands of meals were once prepared. "From that, I met every single person in this neighborhood." Christopher Renfro's defiant harvest This is the 280 Project— San Francisco's only vineyard and arguably the most audacious challenge to wine's established order in decades.
24 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 This direct community engagement transformed Renfro's understanding of access barriers. Several residents initially hesitated to participate, not because they didn't want fresh food, but because they were mistrustful of unfamiliar culinary experiences and felt intimidated. "We weren't offering an elevated experience," he explains, "but showing that dining and good food are normal human experiences. For people who don't get to eat that way all the time, it might seem scary or weird. We wanted to remove that barrier." When access to resources slowed for Feed The People Collective in 2022, Renfro refocused on his original mission in wine while carrying forward the lessons about accessibility he'd gained through the food program. His experiences distributing food had deepened his understanding of community needs and barriers to access, further fueling his approach to wine education. The 280 Project's six-month paid apprenticeship program inverts traditional wine education models. While established pathways require financial privilege and expertise in European traditions, Renfro offers compensation and welcomes participants with zero experience, particularly BIPOC individuals, creating accessible paths to diverse industry careers. "Napa is so bougie, and in a way that's not real—it's still just agricultural land," he says, the statement a direct challenge to the wine industry's existing pretensions. "I think wine is meant to be enjoyed, not necessarily always dissected. I want to make things that represent what I grew up around." This isn't just talk. In four short years, Renfro's vision has evolved to transform wine education and address local food inequity. The 280 Project has "Napa is so bougie, and in a way that's not real—it's still just agricultural land," he says, the statement a direct challenge to the wine industry's existing pretensions. "I think wine is meant to be enjoyed, not necessarily always dissected. I want to make things that represent what I grew up around." Above: Growing favas plants at Alemany Farm. Below: Renfro with his hybrid grape vines.
ediblesf.com | 25 Renfro's greenhouse full of growing produce Above: Working kitchen near projects. Below: Feed The People Collective menu. and address local food inequity. The 280 Project has become a global magnet for aspiring winemakers, some from as far as international waters. Rita Manzana, the program's director, manages a waiting list that the program's current budget cannot accommodate. "This year I had to turn away folks... I just had a couple of people apply from Mexico, Europe, and India," Manzana says, her voice tinged with regret. "There aren't a lot of programs like this in their country. And if there are, there's usually a barrier to entry, like you need disposable income." What makes the program unique isn't just its accessibility, but the comprehensive network Renfro and Manzana have cultivated—connections spanning from UC Davis viticulture academics to Napa winemakers, local restaurateurs, and sommeliers. "We're just an incubator for what other career paths in wine are available to you," Manzana explains. "Whether you're interested in winemaking, distribution, publications, science, or technology emerging in this space—how do we make those connections for folks? This program is more exploratory as we're the bridge regarding access and resources." What they've built with so little tells a story of what's possible. A vineyard by the freeway. A 24/7 accessible organic garden with free produce. A growing waiting list that spans internationally. The revolution is obviously working. It's just underfunded. As the program continues to evolve, Renfro's vision extends beyond the current vineyard and apprenticeship program. The successes of both the 280 Project and Feed The People Collective have proven that his approach works and should be a replicable model. "I want this place to be a hub for anybody who wants to figure out how to do this kind of work in their hometowns," he says, "Come learn the model, or fly me out and I'll help you do it." As we finish our tour, Renfro examines a flourishing vine despite its challenging urban environment. He gently prunes a cutting, explaining how resilient these hybrid varieties are. The metaphor isn't lost on me. I part ways with him with a promise to revisit. Standing at the fence between Alemany Farm, the projects, and the highway, there's nothing subtle about this divide. One side: concrete, chainlink, and the daily architecture of getting by. On the other, an agricultural idyll. Renfro saw it and built a bridge. A man who looked at an industry designed to exclude him and said: I'm coming in anyway, and I'm bringing everyone with me. In his quiet persistence, Renfro reminds us that sometimes revolution isn't loud. Sometimes it's an insistent, stubborn quiet that things can be different from what they already are.
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ediblesf.com | 27 Farm entrance by the Interstate 280
28 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 From Asian pastries to Swedish hot dogs, there's no shortage of pop-ups in San Francisco. But few sell out as quickly—or make for social media content as viral—as Garrett Schlichte's Schnitzel Party at Casements Bar in the Mission. With his instantly recognizable curly mane and cartoon characterlevel exuberance, Schlichte, a former contestant on the Amazon Prime reality TV series "America's Test Kitchen: The Next Generation," is a local star who colors outside of the lines. "Schnitzel is fun and just a little ridiculous," says Schlichte of his chosen Trojan horse into massive recognition. Currently a private chef, he has had a dazzling number of career pivots for a 34-year-old, from working in university administration offices to being a dating columnist, to working for an audio erotica company, to running the dinner series Virgo Supperclub with his friend Lara Ortiz-Luis. After his TV stint, Schlichte signed with an agent and is currently working on an essay collection. In a scene where many pop-ups thrive and fail, Schlichte has already positioned himself as bulletproof. No wonder— throughout his winding career path, he's been "nose to the ground just doing my best to figure out what it means to be alive." Right now, for Schlichte, this means "trying to squeeze as much joy out of everything as I can," which also happens to be the reason why the Schnitzel Party has been so well-received. "It's just fried chicken and potatoes, not the fanciest menu," he says. "But I'm really excited about it all, and hopefully people can feel it." The idea for a stand-out pop-up was born after a video Schlichte posted on Instagram about a schnitzel party he threw for friends in September 2024 got over 100K likes. But of course, enthusiasm alone won't do—it's also the fact that Schlichte aims to keep it accessible. For $32, attendees to the ticketed pop-up receive a large plate with a massive, crispy chicken schnitzel, Caesar salad, Schlichte's signature "party potatoes" (another Instagram recipe gone viral), pickles with lemon aioli, complete with DJ sets and a drag show. While Schlichte loves "quote-unquote tweezer food" and has a background in fine dining, he knows how exclusionary these dining experiences can be. "At the end of the day, people just want to have a good time," he says, "and be a part of something." Having said that, he likes to think that he brings "a certain level of precision" from his fine dining background. "As well as lots of big, bold flavors. There's nuance, balance, and spice," he says. Another secret to success? Hosting an event with late-night elements—a drag THE $32 SCHNITZEL THAT CONQUERED SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAYS Inside the joy-first formula behind the city's hottest pop-up sensation NEW GUARD Writer—Flora Tsapovsky
ediblesf.com | 29 show with a DJ—on a Sunday afternoon to give people entertainment opportunities without pulling by the club at 11 PM. Why combine the European classic dish with drag? Why not, really. "A lot of local establishments misunderstand the relationships between things being good and fun," Schlichte says. He wants both—delicious food that feels comforting and thought-out, a casual atmosphere, and a playful vibe. Unlike high-investment restaurants, pop-ups, he adds, provide chefs with an opportunity to "try new things with fewer restrictions." Plus, Schlichte says, local diners have become more savvy, and the bar is high regarding return on investment. "They know they could pay $75 for a chicken finger that has caviar on it and need to go get a burrito when they're done, or they could pay thirty bucks for something warm and delicious somewhere else," he says. "I think people understand that fancy doesn't necessarily mean better and more expensive doesn't mean good." Schlichte believes that the local pop-up community, which the Schnitzel Party is a part of, can and should offer diners just that: a satisfying combo of price and quality. "I hope there are more pop-ups in the future of the city!" he says, name-checking fellow pop-ups like The Mushroom, Sol Bakery, and My Friend Fernando as inspirations freshening up the scene with creative takes on vegan food, pastries, and Chicano cuisine, respectively. Overall, Schlichte wants to see "more people on both the cooking and eating side engaged in the culinary scene." As for his own pop-up, the third installment of the Schnitzel Party is in the works. "I'm always exhausted for two days," he says. "But I just love it." "Schnitzel is fun and just a little ridiculous." Above: Schnitzel party's drag performers at Casements Bar. Opposite page: Garrett's famous chicken schnitzel. Above: The king of pop-ups, Garrett Schlichte. Above: In the kitchen making schnitzel.
30 | EDIBLE SF SUMMER 2025 IF you don’t know the name James Yeun Leong Parry yet, you will. Formerly of Benu and later, chef de cuisine at Palette Teahouse, he’s one of a cadre of chefs in San Francisco modernizing Cantonese cuisine. Perhaps you’re one of the lucky few who nabbed a spot at one of his sold-out and wildly popular Happy Crane pop-ups, following him and his tasting menus across the Bay Area. This summer, the Happy Crane finds a permanent location as Parry opens his first restaurant in Hayes Valley. Ask Parry about his childhood taste memories (perfectly steamed fish and Coca-Cola chicken wings using a red braise typically reserved for meat), and the duality speaks volumes about his focus on wellexecuted technique. “My style of innovation draws inspiration from the familiar and is often from humble ingredients and dishes,” says Parry. Growing up in working-class Hong Kong, Parry recalls their very small apartment where kitchen space was at a premium. He watched as his grandmother transformed a cheap fish, carp, into a delicacy, perfectly steaming it and serving very simple condiments to draw out the freshness of the fish. He accompanied her and helped select ingredients at the market. Her attention and care with humble ingredients imparted to him the importance of technique that would serve him well when he eventually worked with lavish ingredients too. Parry studied business in college and began cooking for friends—nothing fancy, he admits—but they told him they’d never had Chinese food like this before. Fast forward to the conversation with his parents in Hong Kong as he prepared to pivot to a culinary career after graduating with a business degree. Their response: “Forget it.” Parry traveled throughout China and worked his way up in restaurants, starting as a front-of-house waiter. He cut his teeth cooking at Michelin-starred Bo Innovation, Ta Vie, and Tenku RyuGin, before moving to Tokyo to work at Nihonryori RyuGin. During his time at RyuGin, he met Chef Corey Lee of Benu, who was on a book tour in Hong Kong. Parry described it as the “missing puzzle piece.” Lee brought it all together for Parry—solid reputation, an Asian American former head chef at The French Laundry. He told Lee: “I want to work for you one day.” Lee replied, “We have visas. We can make that sort of thing happen.” FROM CARP TO CRANE WHERE ROOTS TAKE FLIGHT Chef Parry is the playful perfectionist rewriting Chinese cuisine with unexpected twists NEW GUARD : Writer—Annelies Zijderveld Photos—Jeremy Chiu
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