46 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} When I tell friends I’m spending the weekend in Carmel, I always need to clarify. No, not Carmel-bythe-Sea. Its lesser-known counterpart, Carmel Valley. Though less talked about than its seaside sister, this town 20 minutes inland exudes its own rustic chic charm with excellent dining, wine tasting, boutiques, golfing ranges and hiking trails. Sheltered from the brunt of the chilly sea breeze and creeping coastal fog, the area is drenched in sunshine and bordered by the stunning Santa Lucia Mountains. RANCH RETREAT When I arrive at my lodging, it feels like I’ve stepped back in time. Wandering the Spanish stone hacienda of Holman Ranch, with its terracotta rooflines and wrought-iron sconces, I’m reminded of Carmel Valley’s long history of cattle ranching, which dates back to before California was even a twinkle in America’s eye—back when this land was a Mexican territory and the fellows roping livestock were called vaqueros, not cowboys. The presence of history is almost palpable here. A retreat since the early 20th century, the property became a Hollywood hideaway for the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Marlon Brando, Clark Gable and other stars seeking an out-of-the-way escape from the less-than-heavenly traffic and noise of the City of Angels. The property fell into disrepair for a time, but rose again in the 1950s as a working cattle ranch and holiday destination. I find remnants from those days: grainy black-and-white photos of guests and cowhands saddled up to ride the rolling hills, a long-horn skull above a doorway, an old saddle with that irresistible smell of leather. “Down below, where the pond is, that’s where they used to host the rodeos,” the estate’s hospitality manager Zoee Johnston tells me as she shows me the grounds. It endures as an intimate getaway today (with a total of 10 cottages and 4 guest rooms in the inner courtyard), but these days you’ll find pinot rather than PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: HOLMAN RANCH / 1504 - HOLMAN RANCH / HOLMAN RANCH
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