42 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: YOSEMITE MARIPOSA COUNTY is more your speed, you can rent equipment for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, or strap on skates down in the valley at Curry Village’s seasonal outdoor ice rink. On our sunny-but-chilly stay, we had to scrap plans for crosscountry skiing—a lack of snow ended up keeping Badger Pass closed all winter—but the conditions were perfect for hiking. After spending so much time watching the falls, we tested our mettle on the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail. Catching glimpses of Half Dome and the cascading torrent through gaps in the oak trees, we navigated the winding granite steps, skirting loose rocks and fat acorns littering the ground. There’s nothing like an uphill climb to warm you up and make you appreciate the chill in the air. The wide, level trail to Mirror Lake, a two-mile out-and-back along Temaya Creek with no climbing required, calls for a more relaxed pace. The shallow water revealed flecks of fool’s gold shimmering on the lake bed and patches of ice ringed its shadowed shoreline under a breathtakingly blue sky. {due west} When there’s snow at Badger Pass Ski Area, a new way to experience Yosemite’s mountains emerges. Just catch a shuttle from the valley floor and enjoy the scenery before gearing up to plunge downhill on skis or snowboards. If quiet contemplation mixed with strenuous exercise WORKING UP AN APPETITE In winter, make an early dinner reservation at the Mountain Room, so you can enjoy the view of Yosemite Falls from its floorto-ceiling windows before it gets too dark to see. On our visit, the house-made focaccia came with lemon-scallion butter, whetting our appetites for entrées of trout nestled in purple potato puree accompanied by zesty cranberry relish, and a juicy sirloin steak with Delmonico potatoes. While Mountain Room is one of the more upscale eateries in the park, it does offer a kids’ menu, though you’re more likely to be among families at the casual Mountain Room Lounge. Open for dinner daily and lunch on weekends, you can roast marshmallows around the crackling fireplace and order from a pared-down list of starters and main courses. For fine dining, Yosemite’s grande dame is The Ahwahnee, and even if you don’t score a dinner reservation (or failed to pack “proper attire”), your hiking gear won’t raise an eyebrow at the daily breakfast buffet. Completed in 1927, the hotel is worth a visit for its unique blend of Art Deco,
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