Punch Magazine Oct 2024

24 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {quickpunch} How did you go from teaching science to commercial fishing? I was on a park bench in Sausalito grading exams when I noticed herring boats. They dropped anchor after delivering their catch and were preparing for breakfast. I saw loaves of bread, bottles of wine and filets of fish. That sparked my curiosity about what they do. Did other fishermen offer you encouragement? They suggested that I should not become a commercial fisherman: the regulations were becoming more overarching and restrictive, and it’s difficult to be accepted by the fleet. They frown on newcomers. What was your very first sale? Barbara’s Fish Trap—I sold them 100 pounds of rockfish for $50. I was elated to have that cash. After that, I sold fish to Flea Street Café. Do you have a favorite spot? During salmon season, I travel along the coast. At night, instead of returning home, there are anchorages, areas somewhat protected from the elements. One is Fort Ross, north of Bodega Bay. Another favorite is tucked behind Pigeon Point lighthouse. It’s like ocean camping. Can you share any advice for the next generation? Learn the skills and experience from well-seasoned commercial fishermen. Their knowledge is not found in books or in schools. THE Q & A PIETRO PARRAVANO What’s the best way to support local fisheries? Eat more fish that are harvested using sustainable methods. What are some things you’ve done to promote sustainability? In 1997, I co-founded an international fishing association that advocated for using fishing methods that are not harmful to the ocean’s ecosystems, and in 2000, I was appointed to the Pew National Oceans Commission. In 2008, I was presented with an environmental achievement award by President George Bush for my work as an advocate for clean and healthy oceans. What keeps you coming back for more? Often, I look at the Pacific Ocean as a laboratory. It is the largest dynamic entity. My reward is having experienced this and shared the goodness of its bounty. What’s the weirdest thing you’ve ever eaten? My friend, a fellow commercial fisherman from Iceland, brought sheep testicles when he visited. You gotta try them! Why did you decide to open a booth at farmers markets? I grew up with that type of food shopping. When a friend suggested selling at the Palo Alto farmers market, my wife Joan and I pursued that opportunity. A couple of years after that, we started selling fish at the Menlo Park farmers market. Favorite comment you’ve ever gotten? “This fish is the best. What did you do to make this fish so fresh?” The Half Moon Bay fisherman and former science teacher at Woodside Priory shares how the siren song of the sea led him to his life’s work.

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